Like Marib and Al-
Jowf, Shabwa is situated within the geographical area historically known as East
of Yemen .It has vast relief: mountains, plains and deserts extending northwards
towards the Empty Quarter, with an extended coastline along the Arabian Sea.
Shabwa also has a number of archaeological towns and cities dating back to three
ancient Yemeni kingdoms.
Ataq
The capital of Shabwa
Governorate, Ataq is 458km south east of Sana’a. An asphalt road links the two
cities via Marib, Harib ,Baihan and Ridhab –Ataq. THE ROAD THEN LINKS Shabwa
with Abyan and Hadhramout Governorate across Naqba.
Ataq is a modern city.
There is a museum with a valuable collection of antiquities from different areas
of Shabwa, especially the ancient city of Shabwa, the capital of the ancient
kingdom of Hadhramout, Also in the museum are relics from the archaeological
sites of the ancient Qataban and Osan kingdom.
Baihan
Bihan is located to the
north-west of Ataq. It is a beautiful city with houses built of adobe blocks, an
architectural style that is prevalent in the eastern part of Yemen, it stretches
from Sa’da, passing by Al-Jowf and Marib and southwards to the coasts of the
Arabian Sea. This city also has a museum containing a good variety of examples
from the Qataban archaeological sites, which are near to Baihan of which:
Qataban Dynasty (a historical resume):
The old Yemeni
civilization did not prosper on the banks of rivers like other civilizations of
the ancient world like that in the Nile or Mesopotamia but flourished on the
banks of valleys and Qataban is one of the ancient Yemenite states which
flourished on the bank of Baihan valley at the fringe of the Empty Quarter near
Hadhramawt, Sheba, Maeen and Ausan. The state was established on natural,
climate, social, Economic circumstances similar to the other Yemenite
civilizations. Through the scientific studies which covered a number of
archaeological sites it shows that Sheba, Maeen, Qataban and Hadhramout are
similar in their development stages to a great extent in all the fields whether
Economic, Social, religious or Political. The studies conducted in Wadi Baihan
and Wadi Al Joubah refer to the fact that the prosperity of ancient Yemenite
kingdoms including the Qatabanite must have taken place during the onset of
first millennium BC. Concerning the history of Qataban as per what a provided
for in the inscription, the first mention of Qataban is in the Sabaen
inscription of King Karib-II-Water who is the last Mukarrib and the first to
bear the title of king.
Qataban during that
period was a vassal of Sheba which enabled it to get rid of the Ausanide
control. The inscriptions confirm that Qataban was the exclusive during the
first era whose first king carried the title of Mukarrib as is the case with
Sheba for this title combines religious and political authority. Tamna was the
political of Qataban and the biggest Qatabanite city Wadi Baihan amid the
distance between Shabwa the capital of Hadhramout and Marib the capital of
Sheba. The Qatabanites gave the agriculture affairs their full attention as
found in their construction of dams, long distance canals using cement like
substance as well as their drilling of wells.
From their location on
the trade route which is termed and renowned as Ollibanum Route the Qatabanites
achieved big interests this aspect and it would seem that the Qatabanite
commercial activities were like Transit Trade of nowadays. The Qatabanites have
drilled a route which they carved in the Mabalaqah Mount for a distance of 5km
between Wadi Baihan and Al Joubah Oasis, may be the objective behind carving
such a route was for delineating the route and campaigning of smuggling and may
be that happened after it flourished and get rid of the domination of its
northern neighbor Sheba during the fourth century BC. Then in alliance with
Hadhramout Dynasty was able to extend its domination and influence to the South
till the Coast on the Arabian Sea and the valley of Joubah at the distance of
one day from Marib the capital city of Sheba. During the third and second
century BC Qataban reached its optimum prosperity. Qataban paid more attention
to the issuance of legislation, laws and regulations and was more orderly with
regard to commerce and markets. Till this day in Shamir market there is the most
famous Yemenite Obelisk on which there are inscriptions determining those
working in Trade and what taxes and fees imposed in them, Shamir Market is the
market of the Qatabanite Dynasty nowadays is called Hajar Kohlan. Timna the
Qatabanite the prosperous and heritage like the other ancient towns of eastern
Felix Yemen started its way towards demise as the as the One Tenth dedicated for
the goddess A’am in the Qatabanite cities enough to encourage them to serve the
goddess wholeheartedly and the goddess A’ am was not able to defend the cities
of Qataban against the attacks of Hadhramout during the 1st century AD. During
the second century AD, the moon A’am demised and its remaining was annexed to
Hadhramout.
Important Archaeological, Historical and Tourist Attractions
Tamna’a (Capital of
Qatban)
The city of Tamna’a is
one left Bank of Wadi Bihan at the fringes of the desert plain, 30km from the
city was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Qataban, which flourished during
the 4th century BC. It was an important station on the ancient incense road and
was a collection point for taxes from the caravans in return for protection. The
incense caravans, after setting out from Tamna’a had to travel a distance of
1487,5 Mile (2.380km), to reach its final destination, Gaza on the Mediterranean
coast. By then, the caravan would have passed through 65 stations at which the
camels would rest.
The American
Anthropological Institute’s expedition carried out excavation work at Tamna’a
Hajar Hajar Bin Hameed and Haid Bin Aqeel in 1951.
These excavations
showed that Tamna’a was a prosperous city with gold , a rich heritage ,temples
of the goddess “A’am” (Moon). Some of the important antiquities found were:
Tow bronze lions, one
of them carrying a child in the image of Cupid, the son of Venus, goddess of
love. Qatabanite law Obelisk, Water canals built out of stone and cemented with
substance similar to water resistant cement.
Also unearthed were
canals extending from Baihan to a distance of 15Miles(25km, dating back to the
5th century BC.
Hajar Bin Hameed
It is one of the
Archaeological Qatabanite Towns 15km away to the south of Tamna’a on an Oval
hill lying at a height of 70 feet from the surface of the valley at the
Bifurcate of the ancient Routes and is less in size than Tamna. The American
Mission for Anthropological studies sees that the establishment of the city must
have taken place between 1100-900BC.
Mablakah Route
May be the Qatabanites
were more in control and domination of the Incense /Ollibanum /Myrrh Route which
was passing through the lands and Stations of Qataban by their carrying out of a
huge work in domination and control as well as prevention of smuggling for they
carved in stone a mountainous route linking Baihan Valley with Hareeb Valley
through Mablqah Mount which is 1000 feet (380m) above sea level, the length of
the route 3miles (4.8km) in dangerous slopes and the width of the route amounted
from 12 to 15 feet paved with stones and protected at the sides by walls. The
Mountainous strait of Mablaqah was a conjunction point of many routes and Paths
of Incense/Myrrh and Ollibanum.
Ruins of the Ancient
City of Shabwa
This city was built on
the bank of Armah valley. Like other ancient Yemenite cities, which were founded
on the banks of valley, Shibwa is located at the starting point of Wadi
Hadhramout to the western outskirts, extending northwards 100km north of Ataq,
the capital of Shabwa Governorate.
Shabwa was the capital
of the ancient Kingdom of Hadhramout and was the largest of its cities. It was
an important center for the grouping of the old trading caravans. A caravan had
to pay one-tenth of the value of its load to the priest of the temple in the
name of Goddess “ Seen” the Banquet Host ”the moon”.
It is said that Shabwa
used to maintain 60 temples and that it was the religious center in ancient
Hadhramout. Smuggling or deviation from the fixed trading route was a crime
publishable by death. One of the gates of the city was set aside for the entry
of the caravans.
A number of
archaeologists have explored Shabwa at different times and some of the relics
unearthed are on show at the Ataq Museum. Many features of ancient Shabwa are:
-
Ruins of the Royal Palace to the east.
-
Parts of the city wall which are still standing around the northern
gate.
-
Ruins of ancient temples.
There have been no
agreements on the history of ancient Shabwa and the remaining Yemenite kingdoms.
Some think that the
Kingdom Of Hadhramout flourished between the 11th and 4tyh centuries BC, but
recent studies indicate that Yemen’s civilization must have flourished around
1000 BC. Through some probes that showed nearly results. These conclusions have
been dawn from a number of soil tests carried out by the American
Anthropological Institute in Hajar Bin Hameed in 1951 and Jobah in Marib
Governorate in 1980.
The results of which
were very similar. The outcome of these studies indicates that man domesticated
the camel around 1300 BC, and it is well known that the camel was the backbone
of a flourishing trade at the time.
Maifa’a
Maifa’a lies on the
banks of wadi Maifa’a, on the side of the asphalt road linking Shabwa with
Hadhramout, nearby the village of Azzan. It is believed that Maifa’ah preceded
Shabwa as the capital of Ancient Hadhramout, or at one point in time performed
that role.
Maifa’a had a stonewall
with a number of towers, which is indicative of the significance of the city in
ancient Hadhramout. It had a number of temples which were destroyed around the
4th century AD. Today, the city is no more than ruins, but its ruins show signs
of a grate and glorious past.
Habban and Azzan
These two villages are
the most beautiful in Shabwa Governorate. They are no the asphalt road which is
used by tourists and come from Abyan and Ataq to Muklla in Hadhramout. Both have
beautiful houses built of adobe and are high-rise structures, especially the
village of Azzan that is also surrounded by rows of palm trees.
Bir Ali (Ancient port
of Qana)
This area consists of a
number of beautiful Sandy beaches. Some of the most attractive in Yemen. It is a
coastal village and finishing port on the edge of the Gulf 120km from Mukalla
and 140km from Ataq. On the other side of the Gulf there is a volcanic hill
overlooking the south western entrance of the Gulf and it is, the very location
of the ancient port of Qana, once the main port of old ancient Yemenite Dynasty
of Hadhramout from which Myrrh, Incense and Ollibanum used to be exported either
by land the historical Ollibanum Route or by sea. The port of Qana was in close
relationship with Dhofar (currently part of Oman), coasts of India and Somalia.
The volcanic hill is called nowadays Husn Al-Ghurab, and contains ruins of a
control tower which was linked to the port and the water reservoirs. There are
relics at the foot of the original location of the city of Qana.
Hot & Sulphurous
Springs
There are many and
Sulfur springs in Shabwa Governorate such as nearby Rudhoum Baths, which are
considered the largest such springs in Yemen.
Tourist Roads in Shabwa
Many such roads pass
through various parts of Shabwa, namely: desert roads between Shabwa and Marib
which transverse desert and valley, passing by beautiful villages on the way:
Sa’eed, Yashbum and Rawdah, which are
important as handicraft centers for manufacturing materials such as textiles and
a third route near to the beautiful beaches of Bir Ali and Balhaf.
The Incense Road (for
the adventurer in you)
A new tourist road
passes the towns, stations and forts of the ancient incenses Route. This road
starts at Qana port, on the coast of the Arabian Sea, on towards old Shabwa
capital of ancient Hadhramout dynasty, to Tamna’a, the capital of Qataban and
Hajar Bin Hameed in Baihan, across Mablaqah Strait (Hano Al Zareer), to Harib,
Joba and Jarsha, old Hafri city (in Yella and Shaab Al Aqi), and then to Marib
capital of Sheba, Kharbat Soud in Wadi Raghwan, heading towards the towns,
cities and stations of Ma’een Kingdom in Wadi Allisan, from then it goes to
Baraqish, Ahqaf, Doroub Al Sabi and Manassat Al-Muqfar. The road then reaches
maeen Qarnnaw capital of Maeen, across Kharbat Hamdan (Kharbat Al ali), Old
Harem, Nashin, (Al Sawda) Ishtar Temple (Morning Star), Nashiq (Al Bayda), and
then across Jowf valley to Saada to Najiran.